Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Just Getting There

6:12—Kiss Jeannie. She barely opens her eyes. We discuss dinner plans.

6:14—Snatch my bag. Out the door.

6:19—Canned coffee in hand. Flag down a cab. Request Dongzhufen Subway Station. Driver shouts at me. I stare blankly. He speeds off.

6:31—Second taxi arrives at station. Pay 10 yuan. Bolt through turnstile.

6:33—Subway is packed. I pry in. Smashed against glass. People touching every part of my body.

6:36—Thirty more crush inside. Man sneezes on my cheek.

6:44—Change lines. Tunnel is like Qwest Field after a Seahawks game.

6:59—Arrive at bus transfer hall. Locate #980 to distant Miyun. Grandma hawks giant phlegm. Misses my leg by two inches.

7:04—Dust cigarette ashes from seat with back of hand. Settle in for 100km ride.

7:22—Slide over for new seatmate. Great guy. Smells like fish.

7:49—Fish guy dozes off. Rolls head onto my shoulder.

8:37—Arrive at first Miyun station. Persuaded off bus by man with three-inch-long nose hairs.

8:38—Feet on the street. Middle of nowhere. Nose Hairs pulls out a price sheet. Points to an idling car. Conned.

8:39—Call him a name he doesn’t understand. Laugh boisterously at his price. Haggle hard.

8:45—Negotiate the plan: Nose Hairs will provide remaining ride from Miyun to Jinshanling, I will trek 14km to Simatai, where he will meet me and provide return to Miyun. Settle on 280 yuan. Both happy.

8:50—Use translation book for small talk with Nose Hairs. Nose Hairs’ name is June. June is forty.

9:17—June buys me a water.

9:43—Harrowing hill. Bone-rattling road. I am tense. June is cool.

10:20—Deep breath. Gaze upon the crumbly glory of The Great Wall of China.

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